Departing Tallinn at 6:00 am by bus ($7 CAD), I arrived in Riga at 10:20 am. The total duration was 4.5 hours. I stayed at the Rixwell Gertrude Hotel ($69 CAD) for two nights, which was amazing, and really close to the city center. Riga is another city with no skyscrapers, and very fairy tale like. I had trouble walking from the bus station to my hotel, because I was so amazed and distracted by all of the art nouveau. It seemed like the city was right out of an art history textbook. It reminded me of Paris, but with no tourists, and dog poop.
One of the reasons why I wanted to check out Riga was because of one of my Printmaking professors in university. He always talked about Latvia, and their wicked printmaking scene, which I was completely fascinated by. He was right! The city was crawling with art, and there was even an international printmaking festival on! It was perfect timing.
In Riga, there is so much history which a lot of people are unaware of. In Canada we only really talk about the big European powerhouses that have made an impact on Canadian history. There really isn’t any mention of the ‘smaller’ countries, as they are seen as ‘less’ important. Sure, there may not be as much to see or do compared to Paris, London and Barcelona, but there is still so much to learn. I’ve always enjoyed learning history, and how it has shaped the world that exists today. Whether it be with politics, culture or art, there is always something new to learn and experience. For Riga this was it. The past is alive and complicated in Riga – Latvia’s capital city.
Riga was founded in 1201 as a base for crusading German knights, and for three centuries thrived as a one of the Baltic ports in the Hanseatic League (trading route mentioned in my Tallinn post). As a result, Riga became part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and then the Swedish and Russian empires. You can sense this history everywhere within the city, and in its architecture – the largest collection of art nouveau buildings in the world. Here, culture was not just classical exhibitions and plays. It was beyond that common stereotype of “experiencing” a city, or country. There was so much to see, read, and experience just by sitting down and enjoying a coffee. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to explore more of Latvia, despite being there for two nights.
One thing I really liked about this city was that it was off the beaten path, yet had so much charm and beauty, but nowhere near the level of tourism of similar cities like Prague, and Krakow (next few posts). The Hanseatic architecture is fantastically preserved, and it is loaded with cute little cafes, and bakeries. Unfortunately while I was there it rained (both days), so I didn’t really get to see the sun come out and shine beautifully on all of the colorful buildings.
Potatoes are a huge staple in Latvia, along with blackcurrant, and different vegetables. It’s affordable, despite using the Euro as their currency. Many people also speak English compared to Tallinn, which is a hit/miss depending on the area.
Every now and then, I discover a city that seems to be pretty damn close to perfection – yet mysteriously under-touristed, and not visited by as many people as it should be. Sometimes I wonder if they are supposed to be visited, or just kept secret for people like me – that are willing to go above and beyond with their travels and experiences. I will be definitely be returning to Latvia, and Riga in the near future…
During my 2 night stay in Riga, I visited the following sites:
Old Town: The oldest section of Riga.
Alberta Lela/Art Nouveau on Elizabetes Street/ Strenlnieku Street: Largest collection of Art Nouveau architecture by the Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein. Most of the buildings have been renovated.
Jugenda Stila Nami: This area is built entirely in the Art Nouveau and Jugend styles. With over 700 buildings, they are all covered in intricate designs. During the Soviet occupation many of the buildings were nationalized and filled with families until they were privatize. The Albert Hotel also has a great panoramic view of the city.
Riga Town Hall Square: Most of the medieval square was destroyed during WWII, but has now been rebuilt.
House of the Blackheads: Built over 700 years ago, it is one of the most colorful buildings in Riga, which contains a unique history about the legendary brotherhood of the Blackheads, as well as the history Riga. The Blackheads were young and unmarried traders, that were known for their temperament and enthusiasm in regards to various celebrations and events. This house was the cultural epicenter of Riga, but now serves as the president’s temporary residence while Riga Castle is undergoing renovation. Open Tuesdays to Sundays 11 am – 6 pm.
Vermanes Park: Riga’s second oldest public park.
Freedom Monument: Symbolizes Latvian statehood, national unity, independence, and freedom. It was entirely funded by donations from residents, and constructed as a memorial for those who fell during Latvia’s struggle for independence.
St. Peter’s Church: First mentioned in 1209 as a Catholic Church, it is currently a Lutheran church (since 1523), and once had the highest wooden tower in all of Europe. Great views from the observatory.
Cat House: Named after two cats that cursed their first sculptor – he fell while putting them up.
The Begs Bazaar: Small boutiques, restaurants and cafes – the artsy part of town.
Three Brothers: Three close together houses built by three men of one family (legend). They are the oldest medieval dwelling houses in Riga, currently housing the Latvian Museum of Architecture. The oldest brother built his house around 1490 – a time when Dutch Renaissance architecture was popular. Trade and everyday life took place in this house. The middle brother was the richest of the three, and built his house in 1656 to house special residential events, while the youngest brother built his in the second half of the 17th century. His is the smallest, and has the most interesting facade – it is to protect its inhabitants from evil spirits (a mask).
Riga Castle: For centuries, the castle has served as a power center, and is currently the presidential residence. It has been reconstructed many times, while losing old and gaining new artistic and architectural features. Today, the castle has six towers, with walls that are approximately three meters thick.
Old City Walls/Swedish Gate: The oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifications. It was build between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored during Soviet times. The Swedish Gate was built in 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavian’s occupation of the city.
Jacob’s Barracks: Collection of red-roofed buildings along Torna Street. It is home to a number of bars and restaurants. The barracks were built in the 18th century to serve various armies until its last restoration in 1997. They are categorized as the border between the city’s history and contemporary times.
Art Academy of Latvia: Construction began at the end of the 19th century when the Riga Stock Exchange Committee gave a lot of money for the Commerce School of the Riga Stock Exchange. It opened in 1905, and remained in the building until 1915 when it was occupied by the Riga City German Gymnasium. However in 1940 the building became home to the Art Academy of Latvia as it remains today. The exterior serves as a reminder o Riga’s Hanseatic, Neo-Gothic style, while the interior includes stained glass artwork, and sculptures.
Hockey Game (KHL) – Riga Dinamo: A professional ice hockey team based in Riga. It is a member of the KHL, and one of six KHL teams that are not located in the Russian Federation. Tickets were super cheap/along with food/merchandise while your’e at the game. It was an amazing experience that I would highly recommend to anyone who visits Riga! So much different than the NHL games in North America.
Food:
Folkklubs Ala Pagrabs (great food/entertainment), Neiburgs Restaurant, Lido, Salve, Rocket Bean Roastery (coffee), Garaza (soup).
